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August 04-18, 2024

Mom & Dad, Levi, Ozzie (dog)

15 days

Change Lake

Bukemiga Lake (Kopka River)​​​

WABAKIMI

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This page chronicles a 15-day canoe trip through Wabakimi Provincial Park in August 2024.

For detailed route info, refer to the interactive map at right. Most of the videos below have sound (click the speaker icon in lower right to enable).​​​​

​Wabakimi Provincial Park had been on our radar for quite a while. A vast expanse of unspoiled wilderness and the second largest park in Ontario, Wabakimi offers an exceptional canoeing experience with more than 2,000 kilometers of mapped routes through hundreds of pristine lakes and rivers. The park is barely organized in the sense that there are no services available, information is limited, maintenance is minimal to non-existent, and portages and campsites are unmarked and often seldom used.

Wabakimi is remote. The nearest community, Armstrong Station, is a 3-hour drive north of Thunder Bay, and a 17-hour drive (non-stop) from Toronto. Apart from a few bush roads that just barely penetrate the southern boundary, access is limited to flying in by float plane, or arranging a drop-off by train (the main CN rail line connecting eastern and western Canada passes through Wabakimi, and passengers can ask to be dropped off wherever they like).

 

Not many people visit Wabakimi. At the end of the 2024 season, the park posted that there had been a total of 507 visitors for the year. By comparison, Algonquin park has 800,000 visitors in a year on average. As a canoeist visiting Wabakimi, you are very much on your own. We could hardly wait to get there!

Dates:

Crew:

Duration:

Start:

Finish:​​​

August 3

Arrival at Armstrong Station

Sunny, 25°

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After a very long two-day drive from Toronto, we finally arrived in the small town of Armstrong Station, population: 193. We checked in with our hosts for the evening, Don and Kim at Mattice Lake Outfitters, and got settled into a charming and spotlessly clean cabin right on the lake. Levi immediately claimed the vast upper bunk area (complete with moose antlers) as his domain. We would be flying out the next morning at 8 am. Don and Kim were excellent to deal with – very friendly, great service, great communication, and they set us up with exactly what we were looking for: accommodation for one night, a flight out to our starting point at Change Lake, and shuttling our car to the take-out point at Bukemiga Lake on the Kopka River. If you are considering a trip to Wabakimi, look no further than Don & Kim to set you up.

 

We wandered into town to look around and hopefully get something for dinner at the only restaurant in town: Gail’s. We’d been warned that Gail’s had recently been closed for a while, so I called them a few days prior and was told they’d definitely be open. It was 6 pm on a Saturday and Gail’s was definitely closed. When we asked a passing gentleman what time they normally opened he replied that, “sometimes it never does… In fact often it never does”. The small grocery store was also closed so our only remaining option was to head to the one little gas station in the middle of town and pick-up what supplies we could: a carton of eggs, some milk, Kraft Dinner, and a can of beans. Definitely not what we’d hoped for, but with more than two weeks of dehydrated meals ahead of us, I suppose it would do. Armstrong is otherwise pretty much what we'd expected: a tiny, dusty village strung along the main CN railway line at the end of Highway 527, three hours north of Thunder Bay. The place has a distinct 'end of the road' vibe. From here, there is nothing but endless Boreal forest all the way to Hudson’s Bay. After such a long drive, we were glad to enjoy a relaxing evening overlooking Mattice Lake, but the days are so long at this latitude in August that it was hard to get Levi to fall asleep before it finally got somewhat dark around 10 pm.

 

A quick note about our 10-year-old son Levi: Levi has been joining us on canoe excursions (modest initially but increasingly ambitious) since he was just one year old. For the first several years this would involve paddling to a location somewhere along the Georgian Bay coastline, setting up a base camp for a few days, and exploring the area from there. More recently, we've started doing actual trips with him in Temagami – a place Maggie and I know well and used to visit frequently. We found that as long as he was given plenty of time and space to have his own kind of fun (swimming, building 'traps' with sticks and rope, watercolor painting...) these trips could be quite enjoyable for him. In fact, Levi would often impress us with his spirited character, stamina, and durability. But of course there are limits, and more than 2 weeks of remote and difficult wilderness travel is a lot to ask of a 10-year old. Things sometimes go sideways, usually due to an over abundance of biting insects or long periods of rain. Wabakimi would provide plenty of fun to hold Levi's interest, but it would also (at times) push him well beyond his comfort level. And when Levi is not having fun, Mom and Dad are not having fun either! This would be an extraordinarily beautiful trip, but not without some challenging moments.

August 4 - Day 01

Armstrong Station to Change Lake (by float plane)

Sunny, 25°

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Thick morning mist hangs over Mattice Lake as we arrive at the dock to load our gear into the back of a de Havilland DCH-2 Beaver bush plane. My pack alone weighs-in at 90 pounds, and feeling the plane dip to one side as I hoist it up and into the back is an unsettling moment indeed. It's a beautiful, clear, 30-minute flight from Armstrong to our starting point at Change Lake - chosen somewhat arbitrarily as it appeared on maps to be around a two-week paddle from there to where we wanted to end the trip at Bukemiga Lake on the Kopka River. Gliding above the trees, I am struck by how flat the terrain is relative to Temagami, Algonquin, and the Kawarthas (what we in Toronto generally think of as 'Northern Ontario'). But we will soon come to realize that from a ground level perspective, the terrain is quite dramatic and often spectacular. As we descend toward Change Lake, the pilot does a fly-around to check for a good landing spot and any rocks or other hazards that may be jutting out of the water. He is also constantly referencing his phone, which is balanced on one knee, and appears to show our location relative to the GPS coordinates of our destination. After landing, I ask him if he has ever flown into Change Lake before. He replies that he has never even heard of it.​​

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The sobering thought you are left with when dropped by plane in the middle of a vast wilderness is that if you suddenly feel like you may have bit off a little more than you can chew, or forgot your tent poles, or maybe left the oven on at home, it is most assuredly too late now. Parked in the middle of the lake, it only takes a few minutes to load our gear and ourselves into the canoe. The pilot waves a hasty "good luck!", taxis down the lake with a roar, floats over the tree line... and is gone. Now there is only the four of us and our little boat, occupying a profound, empty silence.

 

The plan is to set-up camp right here on Change Lake, and spend the day relaxing and getting used to our new surroundings. We make our way to an island at the east end of the lake, which has a good granite slope for swimming and hanging out. There is a beautiful wall of shear rock face just behind the island to the east, and we spend most of the afternoon paddling around and exploring, excited about the journey ahead. Northwest Ontario is sometimes referred to as 'Sunset Country', and that evening we come to appreciate why. Perhaps it is the relative flatness of terrain combined with the very long days at this latitude, but the sun sets especially low, in an explosion of pink and orange that seems to linger on forever. ​​​

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August 5 - Day 02

Change Lake to Brennan Falls

Sunny, 25°

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We excitedly break camp and set-out at long last, headed north into a channel and up a narrow stream toward Jeep Lake. We hope to get as far as Brennan Falls today, which would make this one of the longer days of the trip. Our maps indicate a number of short lift-overs along the way, most with the option to paddle through. We were told that water levels are currently on the high side for August, but paddling through any of these would definitely not be an option, except perhaps in extremely high water. Many are choked with blow-downs and beaver dams in any case, requiring a lot of lining and slow muscling through boulders and log jams. A lesson we seem to re-learn over and over on every canoe trip is that actual conditions are always more difficult than they appear when looking at a map while seated in a comfortable chair at home. It was quickly apparent that this was going to be an even longer day than originally expected. All of that said, it's a very pretty beginning to the trip, the water is gorgeously warm and clear, and our sense of adventure is high as it definitely feels like we are well away from any beaten path. Just before the final carry into Jeep Lake, not even two hours into the trip, a sofa-sized adult black bear crosses the stream directly ahead, turns ambivalently toward us for a moment, and meanders off into the trees. Wow! Exciting as this is, we are very much on our toes as we continue our approach, making noise and talking loudly. A treat to see a bear but a close encounter is not desired! We enter the south end of Jeep Lake and break for lunch about halfway up.​​

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More of the same as we exit Jeep Lake, continuing up the same winding stream. Our map indicates an actual portage (178 meters) bringing us into Brennan Lake, but we were never able to find it, requiring a difficult bushwhack instead. Because parts of Wabakimi are so lightly travelled, lesser used portages become overgrown and fade back into the surrounding wilderness over time. This would be the first of a few portages indicated on our maps that we were never able to find. Entering the south arm of Brennan Lake, we finally get to change gears and enjoy a good stretch of open water. Sheltered behind a large island cluster at first, soon we are in the main body of Brennan Lake: exposed, open water, with strong winds from the north. Some big rollers but no whitecaps, and it's a fairly short crossing before we are back in the protection of another island group at the east end of the lake. At this point the flow of water briefly splits in two directions, and a narrow north channel with a long set of swifts allows us to avoid a set of falls to the south. The swifts are fast and fun to run, with a few mild haystacks right at the bottom, and we’re all refreshingly soaked by the time we're through them. Even Ozzie seems to be enjoying himself (maybe!).

There are two more short lift-overs around un-runnable rapids and we arrive below the set of falls bypassed earlier. An elevated rock perched up above the falls looks like an incredible spot to call it a day, but getting there is going to be a trick. The flow of water coming out of the falls is VERY fast and voluminous. Our map indicates a short portage that would avoid the worst of it, bringing us into a small sheltered bay off to the side with easy access to the campsite. But there is no obvious landing anywhere to be seen. We pull ashore and I jump out of the boat, searching a wide swath of dense, shoulder-high scrub. Definitely no trail here! We will have to power through the torrent of fast water at the base of the falls instead. It takes a couple of attempts, and we are extra cautious not to loose control of the front of the boat as the current could very easily roll us over, but we manage to squeak through, hunched over exhausted and breathing heavily in the quiet calm of the bay. It’s a spectacular spot to finish the day. The little bay is perfect for swimming and the elevated campsite overlooks the most intense section of the falls. The volume and speed of the water here is simply tremendous. What a full first day it has been! And now, time to relax...

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August 6 - Day 03

Brennan Falls to Granite Falls

Sunny, 26°

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The morning gets off to a slow start. On any canoe trip it will take us a couple of days to work through the accumulation of rust from our (mostly) soft and sedentary city lives, and get properly 'broken in'. Yesterday's long and strenuous first day on the water has us feeling slightly broken! We are also debating our route from here. The plan was to continue north through Granite Lake toward Lower Wabakimi Lake via McWade and Elf Lakes. I'd heard that Elf Lake was quite beautiful, and we were planning to camp there this evening. But while discussing the route with Don back at Mattice Lake Outfitters, he suggested that paddling down the Allanwater River would be a more interesting alternative, without changing the overall route. The Allanwater has several sets of falls and rapids which would surely be scenic, but river travel is generally more difficult and sometimes stressful with Levi, depending on what we'd getting ourselves into. We hadn't researched this river, and we did not have any good info. Either way, we'd be continuing from here to the north end of Granite Lake, and could defer a decision until then.

 

Today would be another day of rapids, swifts, and one very impressive waterfall. Last night's campsite overlooked just one in a chain of falls and rapids separating Brennan Lake and Granite Lake. We have been thinking of these collectively as Brennan Falls, but the ACTUAL Brennan Falls is still a short way ahead. ​​

Exiting the campsite is certainly much easier that it was getting in - the current at the base of the falls shoots us out of the bay like a cork from a bottle and we are on our way! A short lift-over through a narrow crack in the rock brings us to a long set set of gently cascading rapids. They look quite runnable, but there is always the possibility of getting into trouble right above the main falls, which would be, well... not good! Instead, we do a quick ferry to the opposite bank and slow right down, looking for the portage take-out on river right. A short but scenic carry takes us to the base of Brennan Falls - a thundering rush of aerated water forced through a narrow granite sluice. It's barely been an hour but we're already hungry, and stop for a leisurely lunch above the cascade. From here, a seemingly endless chain of swifts carries us effortlessly and at speed through the winding narrows that eventually leads into Granite Lake.

Granite lake is aptly named, with many tall shoulders of smooth exposed rock lining the shore. It’s a hot, sunny day and we pause at a flat bedrock peninsula for a midday swim. We are tired, not making great progress, and it's such a gorgeous day. We decide that we will finish early, enjoy some time on this beautiful lake, and re-charge for a bigger day tomorrow. Besides, we still haven’t decided which route we'd like to take from here: Elf Lake or the Allanwater. We'll decide in the morning!​​​

The north end of Granite Lake is especially pretty, with a series of deep bays hugging tall, rounded peninsulas of rock jutting out into the water. We scope the area for a potential campsite. The terrain is much more rugged than it appears from the water, but we do find the remnants of a very old fire ring, covered with moss and obviously unused for many years. The view from up here is spectacular, but perhaps a little too rough to be comfortable, so we continue on toward a low slope of rock at the very top of the lake, just above Granite Falls where the Allanwater River begins. Not as dramatic as the tall peninsulas on the opposite shore, but great for swimming, and we can relax here.

 

After dinner, Levi and I go out in the canoe to fish a little. Personally, I have little interest in fishing for sport (and we aren't catching fish to eat), but we bring a small rod and modest tackle kit so Levi can have that experience. In less than five minutes he catches his first fish of the trip: a Northern Pike about 18 inches long. He is wide-eyed and thrilled. He wants to hold it, and not hurt it (of course), and release it back into the water. Toward the end of all this, I am surprised by the sound of rushing water coming up behind me. With all of the excitement, I haven't noticed that our canoe has drifted backwards alarmingly close to the fast moving rapids at the entrance to Granite Falls. A surge of adrenaline and some panicked paddling, and we are back at camp for the night.

August 7 - Day 04

Granite Falls to Sturgeon Rapids (Allanwater River)

Rain, 19°

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Everyone is feeling well rested this morning, but the sky is dark and a cold wind rips across the lake. After much debate, we decide to continue north down the Allanwater river. We figure this will be more scenic, though it will add some length to the trip and probably also some difficulty. There is a rough trail that leads directly from our campsite to the start of the portage around Granite Falls - easier to carry the extra distance than load the canoe and paddle to the take-out. The trail is quite pretty - mossy and lush, and spongy underfoot - but almost as soon as we get moving, it begins to rain lightly. Levi is already complaining about cold, wet feet and the weight of his pack - not a good sign this early in the day.

 

Granite Falls roars along beside us, equal in magnificence to Brennan Falls, but somehow feeling far more ominous in today's rainy and windy conditions. A few times recently we have canoed down the Lady Evelyn River in Temagami - a river of similar volume and rugged character. The Lady Evelyn has many difficult portages that can be downright treacherous in wet weather (jumbles of smooth boulders and steep rock faces - easy to twist an ankle on, or worse). We are not yet sure what to expect from the Allanwater, but safety is very much on our minds as we launch into the current. Also on our minds are the many sets of CII rapids ahead - too difficult to for us to run, and which we do not want to get dragged into. We shall proceed with maximum caution and respect for the river.

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Black Beaver Rapids has a straightforward carry, though the take-out and put-in are both right at the edge of fast-moving water, keeping us on our toes. It’s raining heavily now, and that is taking a toll on everyone. Levi has his first minor meltdown at this point: he’s not happy about carrying his pack through the rain and mud, and I certainly can't blame him. We encourage him to focus on the fact that his discomfort is temporary; that we will prioritize getting him comfortable and settled into the tent as soon as the day is done. But expecting a 10-year old to take a philosophical view of such things is a pretty big ask. What else can you do? Breaking for lunch, we try to ease his discomfort by flipping the canoe over a jumble of logs so he can huddle underneath. Maggie and I stand stoically in the rain, eating peanut butter and jelly wraps. The rain begins to ease, and after a rest and something to eat, Levi's spirits raise quickly, as they always do. We press on. ​​

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At Little Sturgeon Rapids, our map indicates a CII rapid in between a set of swifts, but no portage. This is worrying as the river is deep, the banks are steep, and lining would be difficult. But it turns out there is an easy and clearly identifiable portage on river right. We had wanted to push all the way to Wabakimi Lake today, but when we reach the end of Sturgeon Rapids (the last set on the river) there is a finger of rock jutting out over the water that is just too good to pass on: camping here would allow us to take pause and enjoy this spectacular river we’ve worked so hard to travel down. We set-up our happy, sheltered home as a torrent of water swirls around us on three sides. Everyone gets changed into warm, dry clothes, the view is spectacular, Levi sips on steaming hot chocolate and the sun comes out for a while, warming our faces. We feel humility, awe, gratitude, and a sense of accomplishment... and this is the fundamental appeal of why we choose to come here and travel this way. Levi needs a little something extra however (honestly, what a trooper), so we let him watch a movie on my phone in the tent - a special treat. Spirits are high once again. There is just one thing still worrying me: earlier in the day our canoe struck a rock head-on, shattering the skid plate protecting the nose and damaging the outer shell. We will need to be careful not to damage the nose further - it won't take another hit like that.​​

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August 8 - Day 05

Sturgeon Rapids (Allanwater River) to Lower Wabakimi Lake

Rain, 13°

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Today was just one of those days. I don’t remember hearing any rain through the night, but as we crawl out of our tent in the morning, it sure looks like rain is on the way. Dark sheets sweep down from distant skies all around us. It's also surprisingly chilly, though this isn't such a bother as we still have plenty of warm, dry clothes to put on. On the plus side, there won't be any portaging today, and we are looking forward to giving our bodies more of a rest. We leave our beautiful campsite above Sturgeon Falls and head down the last stretch of the Allanwater River, into a sheltered bay of Wabakimi Lake. Wabakimi Lake is enormous, but we only need to get across a small piece of it. Winds are from the north and as we enter the open water it immediately turns choppy. Sporadic sheets of rain are also upon us now. Canoeing across very big lakes is not much fun even at the best of times. Big lakes are boring, prone to high winds, and can get dangerously rough. Wabakimi Lake may actually be quite lovely but we certainly wouldn't know anything about that - nothing is visible beyond a dark grey horizon that never seems to get any closer. Winds are gusting hard as we round the large point at the south-east end of the lake, and just keeping the boat moving in a straight line is hard work. We hug the shore as a precaution, though reflection waves coming from the opposite direction move the boat in chaotic, unpredictable ways. While conditions on the water are not yet what we would consider dangerous, it is all quite exhausting and stressful, especially with Levi in the boat.

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Eventually, we reach the sheltered east end of the lake and enter the narrow channel that separates Wabakimi Lake from Lower Wabakimi Lake. As the name suggests, Lower Wabakimi Lake is really just a smaller appendage of the main lake, and the channel we are entering is like the narrow part of an hourglass. Winding through the serenely calm channel offers a welcome reprieve from the big water and is by far the nicest part of the day, made more enjoyable by a temporary pause in the rain. We glide through an intimate cluster of islands and little bays that would be fabulous for camping. The gloomy atmosphere, rather than dulling everything, enhances a sense of mystery and intimacy - exactly the opposite of where we'd just come from in every way. Perhaps one day on another trip it would be nice to spend a night here, but we feel pressure to put more distance in and not drift too far off schedule. As we enter the broad expanse of open water that is Lower Wabakimi Lake, the rain turns hard and relentless and a sense of futility settles in. The wind has suddenly evaporated, but the damage is done: everyone is soaked and chilled to the bone. Levi sits in the boat completely still and silent, his spirits bottomed-out.

One of our parental fantasies is that introducing Levi to these experiences at a young age will nurture confidence and a love of wild places that he will carry with him for the rest of his life. We like to imagine that perhaps one day he may even return to some of the areas we've explored together with kids of his own. We hope we don't just turn him off it completely...

We reach an island in the south-east end of the lake which looks like a decent place to camp. The wind is back and gusting strong. We swing around to the leeward side which is reasonably sheltered and seems like our best option. With heavy chop developing and a long stretch of open water still ahead, no-one feels like pressing on. It’s not the most attractive place to stay, but at this point we just need to get out of the rain and get warm. The tarp goes up, then the tent, and then we are boiling water for noodles. As for Levi, warm clothes and hot chocolate have raised his spirits considerably. We retire to the tent early, and collapse into a state of deep relaxation. Only after a day like today are the simplest of pleasures experienced with such humble gratification: hot food, a dry shelter, warm sleeping bags (and a double ration of scotch for Mom & Dad), and all is right in the world. When Levi isn't watching, I turn on our ZOLEO to see if I can get a weather forecast. More rain and a high of 10 degrees expected for tomorrow - 10 degrees in mid-August! I keep that info entirely to myself.​​

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August 9 - Day 06

Lower Wabakimi Lake to Smoothrock Falls

Rain, 10°

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Nobody wants to get out of the tent in the morning. It rained all night and outside it’s windy and cold. The thought of spending the day here is not appealing, so we decide that we will do our best to push on to the falls just before Smoothrock Lake. The map indicates quite a few campsites along the way where we could stay if we decide to bail. It was only a few days ago that we were feeling soft and not yet 'broken-in' - we sure are feeling broken-in now! My tripping pants are soaked, so I'm wearing shorts under rain pants - I should be freezing, but the cold barely registers.

 

The wind is behind us, and we tear across the rolling black lake into the pocket at the east end of Lower Wabakimi. The first portage brings us into another small lake where we see the first other canoeists of this trip, occupying a small island. More specifically, we see two tents and a pair of overturned canoes - the paddlers themselves are nowhere to be seen, smartly tucked-in and taking the day off, or so I imagine. The second, longer portage has a long section through deep soggy bog. Looking down at my footing with the canoe balanced on my shoulders, I watch my river shoes squish into deep muck and disappear completely with every step. Someone has laid a few logs down here and there, but they are too slick to walk on without risking injury. There is no point even trying to avoid getting soaked and muddy up to your knees. Unfortunately, this is a last straw for Levi, and he has his second meltdown of the trip. Standing in the pouring rain with his feet in the mud, he begins to sob that he wants to go home. My heart just breaks - we would do anything to make this easier for him, so we do what we can. We get his pack off and Maggie piggy-backs him through the worst sections. At the end of the portage he manages to gather himself, and we carry on. Reflecting back on the entirety of the trip, this would be our 'rock bottom' moment, and things would significantly improve from here.

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Despite these hardships, we have entered a beautifully scenic part of the trip - a narrow, swift-flowing river, lined on both sides by high walls of moss-covered granite, interspersed with tall rocky islands that create even narrower passages. We are captivated by the sublime beauty of our surroundings as we glide silently through this very interesting stretch. Eventually the river divides around a pair of islands with three channels to choose from and a visible drop in water level beyond. We consult our map. We could line the middle channel, or do a very short lift-over on river left. The center channel looks deep so we take the second (easier?) option. This turns out to be the most comically ridiculous 'lift-over' we have ever encountered - a treacherous scramble over an enormous jumble of sharp edged and nearly vertical slabs of rock that are impossible to get any good footing on. It probably takes 30 minutes to haul our boat, our gear, and ourselves a total of ten meters. Why didn't we just line (or run) the middle channel! Maggie and I are running out of steam as we have not stopped for lunch, wanting to press forward for as long as Levi would tolerate. We finally arrive at the last portage around the last set of falls before Smoothrock Lake.​​

There is a rough but truly spectacular campsite here, on a point overlooking the falls. This is exactly as far as we were hoping to get today, so no need to press on further. Plus, everyone is shivering and we need to get warm. We set up our tarp and tent and immediately get Levi changed into the last of his dry clothes. As usual, this is all it takes to turn things around, and he is now singing and laughing and talking non-stop while we scramble around making camp (honestly, what a trooper). We make a quick dinner of 'backcountry lasagna' and get ourselves into the tent early once again. Checking for a forecast, there is one more day of cooler temperatures tomorrow, the rain should clear out, and summer is expected to resume again at long last. At this point, after three days of nearly continuous rain, everything - EVERYTHING - is wet, except for our sleeping bags and sleeping clothes. We are desperate for a little sun. A few months later, back home in Toronto, I would read Levi’s journal entry for this day: "I did a portage that hated me cuz I got wet and muddy feet. AND stupid raining a lot, like what kind of shitty canoe trip is this! Plus our campsite is overrun with slugs". Paints a picture!

August 10 - Day 07

rest day at Smoothrock Falls

Cloudy, 14°

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It rains all through the night (surely the most rain we've ever had on any canoe trip). We sleep late and don’t even get out of the tent until around 9:30 am. We decide to take it slow thismorning and see what happens with the weather. Nobody wants to travel in the rain again - if it stops and the weather appears to stabilize, we might press on. After coffee and breakfast, the sky appears to be breaking up a little bit and the rain has ended. It’s so beautiful hanging out on the point with its misty upstream river view and the falls just below us. We ultimately decide to take a day off here, even though it puts us a full two days behind schedule. We are hoping that we can dry some of our clothes, rest our bodies and then get going early and refreshed tomorrow morning, possibly reaching the southern end of Smoothrock Lake in one day. ​​

This turns out to be a great decision and exactly the day we all needed, spent reading and relaxing, while enjoying the incredible views from this very special place. The weather slowly improves throughout the day and patches of blue sky begin to appear. It takes some effort because the forest is so thoroughly soaked, but we are able to get a good fire going and enjoy another beautiful Wabakimi sunset directly across the bay - the first glimpse of sun in three days, lighting up the sky with warm tones of pink and gold. Best of all, tomorrow's forecast calls for full sun and 26 degrees - Hallelujah! All's well that ends well I suppose, and we are in very high spirits knowing that the worst is now behind us.​​

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August 11 - Day 08

Smoothrock Falls to south end of Smoothrock Lake

Sunny, 24°

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I can't remember another sunrise ever feeling so glorious. Maggie and I get up early and efficiently break camp while Levi snoozes. We will try to push all the way down the length of Smoothrock Lake today, hoping to make up lost time. Smoothrock Lake is one of the biggest in Wabakimi, but because it is comprised of several long, meandering tentacles with many bays and islands, it has none of the quality of a very big lake. We will head south down the western channel - a distance of around 22 kilometers, with no portaging whatsoever. If we have any trouble at all, it will be due to wind. The western channel bends gently along its length but is otherwise nearly straight. Any wind coming up from the south will have plenty of opportunity to gather speed without interruption, as if contained within a long, narrow canyon.

I take some interesting drone footage at the launch below the Falls, and we drift off into the current toward the main body of Smoothrock Lake. We immediately turn south and a long, long view down the western channel opens up before us. It's a stunningly beautiful day, and the still damp clothes we are wearing steam lightly in the hot morning sun. There isn't even the faintest breath of wind and the lake is mirror smooth. Everyone is supremely happy. Here at the top of the channel we enter a large burn area. We don't have info about when the burn occurred, but it appears to have been quite recent. The density of new growth already flourishing is remarkable, interspersed with torched black spruce like enormous burnt match sticks bending over against the sky. It's quite beautiful, really. Levi spots movement in the water just ahead: a pair of adult moose are swimming across the channel. We approach slowly and quietly, and pass right by them, lingering on the shore, chewing on the foliage, watching us watch them.​​

Like Granite Lake, Smoothrock Lake aptly lives up to its name, with many gumdrop-shaped granite slopes assembled along the shoreline. The absence of any portaging allows us to slip into a nice steady paddling groove for the very first time, and the warm sun and heat of the day are invigorating. We're making great time, and pause to stop every hour or so - to get out and stretch, and cool off with a swim. We break for lunch about halfway down the lake, at a beautiful smooth island that reminds me of a part of Georgian Bay we often visit. After a full day of paddling, we finally approach the southern end of the lake, and begin to check out a few possible campsite locations. About a kilometer before a small outpost camp, there is a very interesting steep rock slope (more like a cliff) with what appears to be a flat perch above. Our map doesn't indicate any campsite here, but it looks promising from the water so we decide to check it out. I scramble up to the top, where there is a perfect tent spot. The view out over the lake is superb, but it’s a little rough, water access would be difficult, and getting our packs up here would be a challenge. We think about it for a moment and reluctantly decide to press ahead to the very end of the lake where a marked campsite is indicated.​​

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We arrive at the very south end of Smoothrock Lake, where the Lookout River comes tumbling out of the woods into a little bay (we will be continuing upstream on the Lookout River tomorrow). There is indeed a campsite here, which I have marked as 'nice' on our map (info taken from another trip log found online months earlier). Upon arrival, we immediately regret not hauling our packs to the top of the cliff a few kilometers back. The site backs onto a buggy swamp, has no sun, and is already occupied by many biting sand flies. We are left to ponder what might have compelled any other paddler to describe this site as 'nice'. But this site does have one very nice feature. We paddle over to where the last rapid of the wide, waist-deep, and gently cascading river sparkles brightly in the sun, and spend an hour playing and swimming - all great fun. At dusk, we paddle slowly around the bay to a rising chorus of frogs before retiring to the tent. It's been a very nice day... ​​

August 12 - Day 09

Smoothrock Lake to Lookout River

Sunny, 26°

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Today we head upstream on the Lookout River, kicking things off with the longest portage of the trip (1147 meters), which begins right behind our camp. My notes indicate that this portage is 'very beautiful', and this time my notes do not disappoint. The trail itself is level and easy (a welcome change, though nothing beautiful about that per se). But soon it opens into a long section filled with old blown-down trees, presumably from a severe windstorm ripping through many years ago. This has exposed a wide swath of forest floor, and among the Jenga-like jumble of old silvered logs lies a rich mosaic of mosses, lichen, berries and other delicate succulent plants. Right at the end of the portage is quite a lovely bush site (not immediately on the water but close enough), intimately tucked away but also open and spacious. A wet and mucky end to the portage brings us into Spring Lake - very pretty, with an excellent campsite where we break for lunch.​​

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The Lookout River has its own distinct character - in many ways the complete opposite of the Allanwater River, and a welcome reprieve at roughly the mid-point of the trip. It glides along at a relaxed pace, with several small but attractive falls and rapids that tumble gently in wide cascades. It poses no real threat to wading in for a refreshing splash, without fear of being swept away. The day is hot, and the river is inviting! In between swim breaks we continue along upstream, through a series of small carries - none of them very strenuous, but the heat is exhausting.

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We finish the day early, at the end of a 191-meter carry into an unnamed lake. There is a splendid campsite here, on a wide granite slope that suits us perfectly. Perhaps best of all, it faces south, capturing the full afternoon sun. We spend the rest of the day swimming, washing clothes, charging batteries, and just enjoying some well earned leisure time. We spread all our gear out on the hot granite slope, and after a few hours baking in the sun, everything is bone dry at last. Anyone who has endured multiple consecutive days of rain on a canoe trip knows just how wonderfully good this feels! As the day dwindles and the sun disappears beyond the tree line, a crisp half moon hangs over the lake in front of us. Another beautiful day. Ozzie is absolutely shattered...​​

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August 13 - Day 10

Lookout River to Onamakawash Lake

Sunny, 27°

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Another very hot day, and a blazing sunrise drives us out of the tent early. We depart our beautiful sloped granite campsite and before long we are at the first 68-meter carry around a falls. There is a campsite here, and a nice one at that, with a great view just above the falls. Further along, the river widens into a shallow unnamed lake ringed with many small bays. So far, navigation on this trip has been mostly straightforward. We are primarily using Laurence Mills' excellent tripping maps, available from the Friends of Wabakimi. We also have MNR 1:50,000 topographical maps as back-up, though we've rarely needed to refer to those except out of interest. At the end of the westernmost bay, the FOW map indicates a 173-meter portage into Onamakawash Lake, but as the bay narrows, we see no evidence of the campsite that ought to be visible on our left. We dead-end in a marsh, where there is a stick standing in the mud that appears to have been placed as a marker. We don't think twice about the fact that there is no other obvious sign of anyone passing through here, and there is certainly no landing for a portage.​​

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I jump out of the boat to scout the situation, into knee-deep muck and shoulder-high grass. A rough and thoroughly unpleasant bushwhack to the forest edge reveals something that might look vaguely like a trail (maybe)? There is open water not far beyond, just as the map indicates, so nothing more to do but put our heads down and get it done. Much cursing all around as we haul heavy gear blindly through dense bush, stirring-up clouds of ravenous mosquitoes. Very slow going, but eventually we reach the other side, where a sunny slope of rock dives into open water - Onamakawash Lake, or so we believe. After a quick lunch break we load up the boat and continue on our way, but it quickly becomes apparent that something isn’t right - the contours of this lake do not correspond with our map in the slightest. We have taken a wrong turn. We consult the MNR maps and immediately realize what should have been obvious from the outset - we have portaged from the wrong bay into the wrong (unnamed) lake. It’s hot and this is dispiriting news. No one feels like slogging back the way we came. What else can you do?​​

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45 minutes later we are back at the Lookout River and the actual, correct portage - an obvious trail, albeit in rough shape with many blow downs to muscle the canoe over. Finally we arrive on Onamakawash Lake, but getting turned-around has set us back a couple of hours and everyone’s tired. About half way down Onamakawash, on the south side of the southernmost island, we pass a gorgeous campsite. A nice level tent area back in the trees, an elevated rock 'porch' facing the lake, amazing view... this site has got it all. It's a little early to be ending the day, but we agree to make a bigger push tomorrow. I take my saw to several black spruce that have fallen across the site and stack the wood next to an old fire ring. It's way too hot for a fire, but someone else may make use of it one day. We plunge into the lake for a swim. Thunderstorms are circling all around us, but we only receive a brief sprinkle. In the evening, we play cards out on the point. Just before retiring I throw out a single lazy cast of Levi's fishing rod on a whim, which is immediately seized by a large walleye. I have always equated fishing with sitting in a boat for hours while absolutely nothing happens, but around here you don't even have to try!​​

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August 14 - Day 11

Onamakawash Lake to Boulder Lake

Sunny, 26°

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Beautiful, calm conditions as we head to the southernmost corner of Onamakawash Lake - ideal for putting in a big day, and we need to reach Boulder Lake to avoid falling any further behind schedule. If it weren't such a quiet morning, we might have missed the faint rumble of a freight train in the distance up ahead. The main CN rail line connecting eastern and western Canada runs right through the south end of Wabakimi, and this is a common way for canoeists to enter the park - trains will transport your canoe and gear and drop you off anywhere you like. We will need to portage along these tracks a short distance into Shawanabis Lake on the other side.​​

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There are a couple of outpost cabins where the lake dead-ends, and three men are hanging out on a dock - the first humans we've seen in eleven days. We ask them how to reach the train tracks and they point to an old, falling-down cabin across the bay. Our map identifies this as 'Schulz’s Trail', which leads uphill to the rail embankment, somewhere still out of view. While unloading our gear, we are startled by the sudden roar of another train thundering through, this time very close by, and we wait a long while for it to pass before setting out. Portaging a canoe along the country's main rail line as it pushes through a vast lonely wilderness is quite a novel experience. I can't help but think of the wonderful NFB film, 'The Railrodder' with Buster Keaton, who would have passed right through here (theoretically). It all feels very Canadian somehow. The line bends through a long rock cut which makes Levi justifiably nervous - we aren't sure how much warning there'd be if a train came through, and the thought of scrambling into a fast huddle against the rock face is an experience we can definitely take a pass on.​​

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But we won't see or hear another train on this trip. A steep descent down the opposite side of the embankment and we arrive at Shawanabis Lake, where we pause for lunch and a swim. Shawanabis Lake is stand-out beautiful, with a smooth rocky shoreline and many interesting islands, all of which look like they'd be excellent for camping. It's a shame to have to push right through and not linger - perhaps on another trip we'll stay here for a night or two. Shawanabis is big, but we have perfect, calm conditions with a light tailwind and make good progress. Toward the southern end of the lake, we discover a beautiful little crescent shaped beach, and pause for another swim. It's been a glorious day and spirits are high, but we still have some distance ahead.​​

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At the south end of Shawanabis, we enter a deep pocket of shoulder-high reeds and clear, shallow water. The surrounding forest narrows to a point in the distance ahead, at a falls we can hear but not see. We follow a little stream, coiling back and forth before running out of water at the portage to our destination: Boulder Lake. It’s a straightforward carry, but it's been a long day and everyone is exhausted. We grab the first campsite at the north end of Boulder, which turns out to be fabulous. Excellent swimming and a lovely clearing back in the trees, very similar to a favorite island campsite on Diamond Lake in Temagami. As the sun goes down the bugs drive us out of the forest, and we relocate to the smooth granite peninsula, where a half moon is rising just behind us.​​

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August 15 - Day 12

Boulder Lake to Kenakskaniss Lake (Kopka River)

Partly Cloudy, 24°

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Today's destination is Kenakskaniss Lake on the Kopka River, and the beginning of the final leg of our journey. We plan to slow things down and really enjoy this next stretch, hoping to reach Kenakskaniss by early afternoon. One of the interesting features of Wabakimi is that it straddles the high point of land between the Hudson's Bay and Great Lakes watersheds. Thus far, we have spent the entirety of the trip in the Hudson's Bay watershed, but today we cross over the height of land and begin to follow the flow of water south, toward Lake Superior. There will be three portages for the day, in quick succession, which bring us over the hump. Finding all of this quite intriguing, Levi begins discussing one of his favorite books, 'Paddle to the Sea', which follows the years-long journey of a child's hand-made wooden canoe through the full length of the Great Lakes watershed, from Lake Nipigon to the Atlantic coast. He remarks that before we leave, he would like to fill our water bag with Arctic-bound water, carry it over the portage and pour it out on the other side.​​​

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We get through all three carries quickly, and it’s a thrill to finally arrive on the storied Kopka River. Right away we are flying along through a series of swifts to the point where the river opens into Kenakskaniss Lake. Like Smoothrock, Kenakskaniss is another long, narrow lake but we don't have quite the same luck today, with strong headwinds from the south. Today is Day 12, we're all a little fatigued, and by the time we reach the south end of the lake Maggie is struggling. But the effort was completely worth it. In the distance before us, a beautiful granite cliff in the shape of a whale's back rises into view. On the spacious, level crest is a truly spectacular campsite, one of the finest of the trip, with a tremendous view up over the entirety of the lake. The cliff face plunges deep below the water, swimming is fantastic, and Levi and I go for a dip while Maggie relaxes. We'd heard that the Kopka has become a (relatively) popular destination in recent years, but there isn't another soul out here.​​

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For us, the most challenging factor when planning long wilderness trips is the food situation. Usually after a week, everyone is thoroughly sick of camp food, but on this trip, after 12 days, that hasn't been the case at all. Two years ago we discovered Kevin Ride's excellent book, 'Backcountry Eats', which opened our eyes to preparing and dehydrating all of our own food. This has been a complete game-changer in the way we plan meals. Lightweight and compact, just boil in water for 10 minutes and voila!: homemade chilis and stews, pastas and risottos... even 'backcountry lasagna'. Fruit leather makes a tasty snack, and dried strawberries and blueberries go a long way to elevating breakfast oatmeal. We've had time to perfect most of these recipes over the winter months, and nearly everything we bring is homemade - healthy and delicious. Levi hasn't complained once about food, which says a lot...

 

Our large 10-litre water bag is still half-full from this morning, and later in the evening a refreshing new cocktail is born: the 'Wabakimi Sunset':

- 1 part Hudson's Bay watershed water

- 1 part Great Lakes watershed water

- Concentrated fruit punch

- A splash of scotch (Mom & Dad only)​​

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August 16 - Day 13

Kenakskaniss Lake to Seven Sisters (Kopka River)

Light Rain, 22°

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It rains all through the night, diminishing to a light drizzle by the time we finally wake-up at 8 am after sleeping late. Today is Maggie’s birthday. We had planned to exit today but we are two days behind schedule so the celebratory hot shower, fresh food, and night in a hotel will have to wait just a little bit longer. In spite of the weather, nothing can spoil the view from the cliff top, and after a hot breakfast we are on our way. Today we arrive at the fabled ‘Seven Sisters’ section of the Kopka River - a series of dramatic cascades which, put together, tumble almost 80 vertical meters across a distance of only 2 kilometers. While everyone slept well, we are tired, physically beat-up and could use a day off. Nice conditions with a light tailwind as we get to the end of the lake and veer into the runnable part of the first rapid before it jams-up with rocks. We are only doing one 674-meter portage today, but it turns out to be the most difficult of the trip so far, reminiscent of one particularly challenging portage on the Lady Evelyn River in Temagami. Nearly the whole thing is a jumble of giant, slippery boulders - one misstep and you could easily twist an ankle, or worse. With heavy packs on, it's very slow going, taking an hour and a half to double-carry. This one takes a toll on Ozzie as well, whose paws are red and irritated by the end.

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At the put-in, we see a mangled aluminum canoe with a massive hole in it tucked into the bush, like a warning sign saying, 'try not to do anything stupid'. A long and continuous chain of waterfalls awaits us just ahead, with a single portage around all of it. It's only a short paddle to the take-out, where there is a campsite next to the first drop. We decide to stay here, get some rest, and complete the three carries to the next campsite tomorrow. The weather improves, and soon we have blue skies and sun once again. We go for a walk along the river edge to survey the full length of the falls, charging through one thunderous drop after another. At the midway point, we come across another campsite not indicated in the FOW maps. It certainly has appeal, right at the edge of the churning maelstrom, but we'd be far too uncomfortable camping here with Levi and Ozzie. It turns out to be the day we all needed, relaxing and calm, set against a backdrop of awesome natural power. Not the birthday Maggie had hoped for perhaps, but a good and memorable one nonetheless!

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August 17 - Day 14

Seven Sisters (Kopka River)

Sunny, 26°

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This would be an amazing day, taking us through one of the most ruggedly beautiful riverscapes we've ever experienced. Maggie and I wake before sunrise, intent on getting moving as quickly as possible toward the campsite on the other side of the next two portages. We are packed up and depart camp at 8 am - not exactly super-intrepid, but a first for us. The canoe was portaged to the put-in yesterday, so it’s an easy and fast carry, aside from a steep descent with poor footing right at the end. A short pond-hop brings us to the next short carry, which ends at a picturesque bend in the river featuring an oblique view of the river spewing sideways from the rock face. One of the fascinating aspects of the Seven Sisters is how packed full of surprises it is, and how uniquely different each of the falls is, in shape, character, and in the way one stumbles upon them.

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Another short paddle and we arrive the third and last portage for the day. This one ends with a nearly vertical drop reminiscent of the portage around Bridal Veil Falls in Temagami. With Levi waiting at the top, we lower our packs down carefully with lining ropes, then Maggie passes the boat down nose-first to where I stand more than a storey below, on a boulder sticking out of the water. We will come to learn later in the day that we could have avoided this crazy descent to the water - that another, easier trail exists which isn't indicated on our maps. But the easy trail also bypasses the next short bit of paddling, which is an absolute thrill and would be among the most memorable moments of the trip. As we paddle away from the portage and out of a small bay, immediately on our left a massive chute of a waterfall gushes down from above. As the current ferries us swiftly along, a wind rushes through the canyon, and turning to our right around a steep rock face, a stunning sight unfolds before us: we are in a small, intimately contained lake, surrounded on all sides by impressive cliffs glowing orange in the morning sun. On the cliff above us, right where we have rounded the bend, is one of the most spectacular campsites we have ever seen.

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We hoist our gear to the top of the cliff and discover a spacious plateau. There isn’t another soul anywhere to be seen - nothing but astonishing views in every direction from this unique vantage point. It’s only 10 am but we are done for the day as planned - why would we want to continue? After setting-up camp we spend some time just lounging in the sun, enjoying and absorbing our surroundings - the falls stirring mist into the air behind us, with 50-meter cliff faces encircling the lake on three sides. Later, we move our canoe to a more accessible landing area and discover the alternate portage trail mentioned earlier. More difficult as it was, we are glad to have arrived here in the breathtaking manner that we did.

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In the afternoon, we take the canoe out to explore. The south end of the lake enters a deep crevasse, intimate and quiet, the sound of our paddles dipping into the water amplified and resonant as if inside a cave. We paddle over to the sunny, red cliff face along the opposite shore which has a few wide ledges right at the water, and plunge in for a swim. It's a hot, sunny, and glorious day. While there is still one more day of paddling ahead of us, it feels as though the trip has reached a high point, and with the finish line so close, there is a desire to soak it all in as much as we can.

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Back at camp, the sun is setting over the falls behind us. For a change it cools off nicely in the early evening and we get a campfire going, something we haven’t done since Smoothrock Falls. The cliff faces across the lake briefly blaze a fiery orange, then dim to blue in the fading light. It never really gets completely dark at this latitude in August, and twilight seems to linger on for hours. We sip the last of our 'Wabakimi Sunset', and retire to the tent feeling very satisfied.

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August 18 - Day 15

Seven Sisters to Bukemiga Lake (Kopka River)

Sunny, 25°

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A thick blanket of mist rolls in as we awaken, atmospheric and beautiful. By breakfast it has entirely burned away and another day of gorgeous weather begins to unfurl. Unless something unexpected happens, this will be the final day of our trip. We had made arrangements with Mattice Lake Outfitters to shuttle our car to an access point roughly 25 kilometers downstream. It will be a long paddle for one day but we are all feeling pretty motivated, Levi especially, who has never been more anxious to help pack and haul our gear to the water!

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The Seven Sisters are not fully done with us yet, however. There is one last difficult portage ahead, notoriously referred to as the 'Mountain Goat'. Unsure if, or when, we might ever return to this very special place, we set-out for one last circumnavigation of the lake; up to the falls and around the perimeter of majestic cliff faces, making our way slowly to the north-east pocket where the Mountain Goat resides.

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The Mountain Goat presents you with two options to chose from: The portage on river right is the longer option, and so shockingly steep that we wouldn't dare attempt carrying the canoe down on our shoulders. Picture a fire escape stair (so unusually steep) descending 5-storeys or so, but replace the actual steps with boulders and terrible footing. Why would you even consider this option, given that it's also the longer of the two? Because the alternative on river left is perhaps the most comically ridiculous 'portage' we've ever seen. It goes STRAIGHT DOWN, and wouldn't be feasible at all were it not for the climbing ropes that someone has left fixed in place. There is ZERO chance we are going to test our luck with the ropes (impossible with a child and dog in any case), so we take the marginally less ridiculous option. At this point, we are taking notice of a common motif among the Seven Sisters portages: eye-popping, precipitous drops! 

With each of us taking an end, we walk the canoe down at a 45-degree angle, maneuvering carefully, taking our time. At the put-in we are practically buzzing with excitement, having made it safely through the day's most challenging obstacle. It should be a straightforward paddle out from here. We briefly visit the last falls of the Seven Sisters - this one tumbling down over a wide, terraced rockface, as uniquely beautiful as each of the others. There is a fabulous campsite here, facing the falls, which doesn't appear on our maps (if we ever return to this place, we'll definitely be spending a night here). The Kopka's dramatic canyon-like quality continues on for a little while longer, before it slowly widens, the current slows, and it eases its way into two very large lakes, Wigwasan and Bukemiga. The only lingering concern is the possibility of having to contend with strong winds through this stretch. Wind is from the north, and we do encounter some uneasy chop on Wigwasan, but veering south on Bukemiga to where the river narrows again, we're rolling along effortlessly with a tailwind, feeling very excited, the finish line just out of sight.

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The River bends sharply, and we can see a couple of trailers parked at the access road where our car awaits. The Kopka carries on from here, winding its way out of sight toward Lake Nipigon. Fifteen days of remote wilderness travel is a lot, but this trip has been so much bigger than that, involving months of research, careful planning, and many late nights pouring over maps. Like any good journey, this one has been full of surprises, challenges, discovery, and many moments of wonder. Best of all is the excellent family time these trips afford - a welcome reprieve from busy lives without any of the usual distractions. Wabakimi is certainly an extra special place with an incredible variety of wild and beautiful landscapes, and we've barely even scratched the surface. It's both a shame and a blessing that so few visitors make it up here. We're already planning a return visit... but first: this guy wants A TALL STACK OF WAFFLES!

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